Showing posts with label fashion news. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion news. Show all posts

20 Oct 2011

Weird News/Men Don High Heels, but Maybe Not for Long

Olympic figure skater Johnny Weir sometimes struts in heels. Other men are starting to do the same. (Ray Tamarra/Getty Images)
Reports have been floating around for more than a year. Hairy legs atop 4-inch sticks. Bulging calves coming out of Bottega Venetas. Wedges, platforms, even stilettos being worn by -- gasp -- men.
Johnny Weir rocks them. Derek J, the Atlanta hair stylist made famous by Bravo's "Real Housewives," does too. New York and San Francisco boast growing groups of glam-footed guys. Los Angeles, too: A New York Times report filed from there last week has kicked up the notion that high heels for XY chromosomes are the new hot thing.
Trends aside, men have been wearing heels to make a statement for years. In April, dozens of dudes pushed into pumps for the University of Alaska's fourth annual "Walk a Mile in her Shoes" fundraiser to benefit female sexual assault victims. A similar event in San Antonio, Texas. this month supported victims of domestic violence.
But now, fashion insiders are noticing guys strapping stilettos onto their gams for entirely aesthetic reasons.
"What's partly propelling it is the fact that men have become more comfortable with their feminine sides and are less afraid to show that, especially since high heels literally elevate you from the crowd," said Michael Musto, culture critic for the Village Voice.
Historically, it's not unprecedented. As the Times pointed out, heels were de rigueur in pre-Napoleonic France. Men of all stripes paired platform shoes with their bell bottoms during the 1970s. The latest iteration finds guys in shoes built for gals.
"It's the girly fascination," said celebrity stylist Philip Bloch. "These men can appreciate the heels for their artwork."
Bloch pointed out that women co-opt menswear all the time. Take the boyfriend jean, the baggier, rolled up cousin of skinny, boot-leg and flared styles. Loafers, tuxedos, fedoras and ties have all, at varying points, found a home in the women's department.
For now, men buying heels is a trend without numbers. But, pardon the pun, it's got legs.
"It's still too small of a trend now to make it on the radar and there's still not enough people that will allow themselves to be counted as purchasing that product," said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst of the market research firm the NPD Group. "But we will, by next year, be able to quantify it."
Cohen billed the trend as "part of the new migration of consumer openness." Indeed, if there were ever a time for men to feel comfortable slipping on a pair of Manolos, it's now. In the past year, bullying became the enemy, "Don't Ask, Don't Tell" was repealed and New York legalized gay marriage. If Lady Gaga serves as an example, androgyny is in.
But then there's the physical factor.
"Once they dig their feet into a pair of six-inchers and realize how incredibly awkward it feels, I think most guys will run back to flats," Musto said, musing that the most flattering high heel for a man "would probably be an open-toed one for a quick exit."
Still, even if the trend only sticks around as long as it takes to develop a callus on the ball of of a foot (for the uninitiated: it doesn't take very long), Simon Doonan, the creative ambassador of Barneys and author of "Eccentric Glamour," applauds men attempting what women have endured for centuries.
"It's the same as gay marriage," he said. "Why should straight people be the only ones who suffer?
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15 Oct 2011

Asian Models All the Rage in Fashion World

 Lui Wen walks the runway at the Rag & Bone Women's Collection Fall 2011 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at 82 Mercer, New York City, Feb. 11, 2011. (Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
From the top designer shows in New York to ads for the all-American brand J. Crew, a new group of supermodels is taking center stage. Move over, Heidi, Gisele and Naomi, and make way for Du Juan, Shu Pei and rising star Liu Wen.

Wen was a ubiquitous presence at New York Fashion Week this fall and was the most-booked model of color at this year's Mercedes Benz Fashion Week.

She was the first Chinese model to walk a Victoria's Secret runway show, which is usually dominated by blond bombshells.

Wen, 23, was among a group of models recently featured in a Vogue article heralding the rise of Asian models. The headline -- "Redefining Traditional Concepts of Beauty" -- quickly spawned controversy.

"They said a new crop of Asian models from China, South Korea and Japan is redefining traditional concepts of beauty," said blogger Jen Wang. "That's a little bit like Vogue saying, 'It's 2011 and we finally think Asian women are beautiful.'"

Wang is cynical about the trend and said it is driven not by a new appreciation of Asian beauty, but by a pure profit motive -- the booming buying power of the Chinese consumer.

"I think the fashion industry is starting to take note and starting to put people who represent that market into their pages," she said.

In cosmetics alone, the Asian market is poised to become the world's largest, growing to $85 billion a year.

Estee Lauder recently jumped on the bandwagon, signing Wen as its first Asian "brand ambassador," joining the ranks of Elizabeth Hurley and Gwyneth Paltrow. A native daughter like Wen might unlock the door to China's enormous market.

"I think Estee Lauder should be celebrated for signing someone like Liu Wen to be their first Asian spokes model," said Joe Zee, creative director of Elle magazine. "A modeling contract is a holy grail for any model. To have an Asian face represent that, a whole 100 percent Asian born and bred face represent that, that's amazing."

Liu Wen has come a long way from her home village in China's Hunan Province. After winning a modeling contest, she was discovered by French stylist Joseph Carle.

"When I saw her I thought she's a Chinese Evangelista," said Carle. "She can do so much with such excellence and she can create an intimacy with the readers, too, because the readers want to identify with the girls."

Wen demurred when asked if she thought she had ever been passed over for work because she was Asian, and the barriers loom large. Critics say all-Asian castings -- as in Givenchy's haute couture show last fall -- reek of exoticism. It was the same criticism leveled at Vogue Italia for its so-called "all-black" issue.

"Unfortunately. it plays into the stereotypes that Asians all look alike," Jen Wang said of the Vogue spread. "Because the models did all kind of look alike."

Indeed, British Vogue's recent article about the rise of Asian models misidentified Liu Wen as a different Chinese model.

Joe Zee, the creative director of Elle Magazine, said this line of criticism was justified.

"There's something to be said about grouping a bunch of Asian models together," Zee said. "I think that it feels almost like a fad or a trend, versus something that just feels like a melting pot of beauty."

Wen thinks the widening len of beauty is more than an "it bag," and added that she doesn't care whether the trend was about diversity or the market.

"I feel the world is smaller, and the fashion world is getting bigger for any girl," she said. "Before you have black girl, white girl. Now you have kind of yellow-skinned girl. So it's Western meets Eastern." 
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